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WHAT IS THE BEST LED LIGHTING for a 6ft planted tank?

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  • WHAT IS THE BEST LED LIGHTING for a 6ft planted tank?

    I have a 6x2x2 planted tank & I want to upgrade from my Arcadia Pendent 4 (Florescent + Metal Halide) to an elegant LED that will provide good quality light to my discus/planted tank.
    Is there any SMART freshwater LED's?
    I find the Florescent lighting does not provide the PAR needed of the 2' depth and the quality of light deteriorates quickly 8-12 months max.
    The light I have has 2 - 80 watt florescent light + 3 - 150W metal halides.
    I am finding it difficult to get good constant growth to the plants I have.

    Thanks
    Ray

  • #2
    I hope others can answer which brands, I make my own (buying the frame/heatsink from satisled and wiring up my own chips) so not sure which brand names are decent these days..

    One recommendation from me though is to get RGBW (or WRGB) led lighting.. Strictly speaking I really use RBW (red chips, blue chips and white chips). I run them at a ratio of 1 blue to 1 red to 2 white (I use cool white) to get a pleasant looking light spectrum for humans and also the red and blue chips which are ideal for plant photo synthesis, though I note most commercial ones seem to run 2 blue for each 1 red..

    Comment


    • #3
      I do have one 'commercial' light and it is the one below from china.. It uses combined blue/red chips (grow chips popular in hydro setups) in combination with white chips.. Not sure if you want one or two (for me one was plenty for strong growth but depends on plant types). You certainly won't need to replace it every 8-12 months and I would recommend one of the two timer based models as the base one doesn't hold it's previous setting (if you adjust brightness) when you power cycle it.

      https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3260...66dee59f7c80-7

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Ray.M View Post
        I have a 6x2x2 planted tank & I want to upgrade from my Arcadia Pendent 4 (Florescent + Metal Halide) to an elegant LED that will provide good quality light to my discus/planted tank.
        Is there any SMART freshwater LED's?
        I find the Florescent lighting does not provide the PAR needed of the 2' depth and the quality of light deteriorates quickly 8-12 months max.
        The light I have has 2 - 80 watt florescent light + 3 - 150W metal halides.
        I am finding it difficult to get good constant growth to the plants I have.

        Thanks
        Ray
        Hey Ray.
        You are asking advice from this forum at the worst possible time. All the members left after the forum owner upgraded the forum and ruined it. So everyone is pissed off and are not bothering signing in.

        I am not a huge help on lightning unfortunately. But I do know Chihiros makes good lights. I am not sure if they are good enough to penetrate your tank depth though. The A series was really popular and they had the A series plus which was just wider. There are new ones now so it would be good to check them out. Another option is Make My LED. Fred sells to the forum members so check out his website. I have th MML Chihiros which is their version. It grows my plants quite well but then again my tank depth is like 35cm.

        If you can't get any decent help on this forum then try and ask around other forums even if they are overseas they may help guide you to a good product. Also if you are on Facebook try Liverpool Creek Aquariums group page and some other Aquarium societies pages. Unfortunately I don't see you getting any help on here anymore

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Monty1089 View Post

          All the members left after the forum owner upgraded the forum and ruined it. So everyone is pissed off and are not bothering signing in.
          Ah so that's where everyone went! Yeah the Chihiros inc our version won't cut it on a tank that deep and wide, check on liverpool creek aquariums for independent advice but what you need is something with power leds and optic lenses to target that height, https://makemyled.com.au/make-my-led...r-180cm-panels

          We are out of stock 6 footers but new model on the way with high rise brackets like chihiros. You would need a PRO5 with 90 degree optic lenses.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by makemyled View Post

            Ah so that's where everyone went! Yeah the Chihiros inc our version won't cut it on a tank that deep and wide, check on liverpool creek aquariums for independent advice but what you need is something with power leds and optic lenses to target that height, https://makemyled.com.au/make-my-led...r-180cm-panels

            We are out of stock 6 footers but new model on the way with high rise brackets like chihiros. You would need a PRO5 with 90 degree optic lenses.
            Yeah. The forum owner came in after so many years away from the forum and for some reason thought he would update it. What he did is completely ruined it. Just look at the forum how crap it is. He signed back in around December last year and since then has never come back. He created this mess and fled!

            Here you can read up about the changes here:

            https://www.aquariumlife.com.au/foru...-forum-upgrade

            The forum owner is here if you were wondering:

            https://www.aquariumlife.com.au/member/1-aqualife

            Also if you remember how the forum used to look like before the forum owner ruined it is here. I found it a while back:

            https://web.archive.org/web/20190330...u/activity.php

            So much better.

            Anyways back on topic the light I bought from you Fred is still great. I have left it on half intensity ever since I have bought and never touched it after that. Still going great and no issues *touch wood*.

            You won't find any of the old forum members on here anymore. They may log back in after months away and some are still lurking around without signing in. If you need to check in on some people the only way is to private message them and hope they see it.

            Comment


            • #7
              Totally agree that LED is the way to go. I ditched my metal halides more than a decade ago and never looked back. Right now I'm running Ledzeal Malibu (which is already 7 years old but still performing well).

              A "cheap and cheerful" solution if you want to play with some LED quickly is just to use some Bunnings daylight floods. I ran a 4x2x2 on a pair of "50w" (they don't really draw 50w, that's just the maximum nominal dissipation of the LED used) and it worked pretty well. Not that aesthetic though.

              As you can see, the forum is nearly dead. Interestingly, ages ago Grubs posted a search link that actually DOES bring up all the recent posts.

              You wonder how hard it might be to embed that link in a page banner on the site.

              The link is:

              https://www.aquariumlife.com.au/sear...%7D&btnSubmit=

              Works for me... Most of the "new posts" these days are just spam bots sadly...

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by dcm View Post
                Totally agree that LED is the way to go. I ditched my metal halides more than a decade ago and never looked back. Right now I'm running Ledzeal Malibu (which is already 7 years old but still performing well).

                A "cheap and cheerful" solution if you want to play with some LED quickly is just to use some Bunnings daylight floods. I ran a 4x2x2 on a pair of "50w" (they don't really draw 50w, that's just the maximum nominal dissipation of the LED used) and it worked pretty well. Not that aesthetic though.

                As you can see, the forum is nearly dead. Interestingly, ages ago Grubs posted a search link that actually DOES bring up all the recent posts.

                You wonder how hard it might be to embed that link in a page banner on the site.

                The link is:

                https://www.aquariumlife.com.au/sear...%7D&btnSubmit=

                Works for me... Most of the "new posts" these days are just spam bots sadly...
                Yes this does work for me but you need to be signed in to see the posts. But most of the old members will never sign in with the state of the current forum and probably will never find that link to the posts. Well and truly abandoned ship

                Comment


                • #9
                  [QUOTE=dcm;n959368]Totally agree that LED is the way to go. I ditched my metal halides more than a decade ago and never looked back. Right now I'm running Ledzeal Malibu (which is already 7 years old but still performing well).
                  ]

                  I am really surprised that the LEDzeal is still running. My thoughts are that most aquarium lights would crap out way before that. Those LEDzeals were quite expensive even back then! Nice buy.

                  My Chihiros lights (from 2015 I think) had a recent crap out of one of the power packs. Fortunately I was able to figure it out and replace just the power pack.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    [QUOTE=Rebel;n959505]
                    Originally posted by dcm View Post
                    Totally agree that LED is the way to go. I ditched my metal halides more than a decade ago and never looked back. Right now I'm running Ledzeal Malibu (which is already 7 years old but still performing well).
                    ]

                    I am really surprised that the LEDzeal is still running. My thoughts are that most aquarium lights would crap out way before that. Those LEDzeals were quite expensive even back then! Nice buy.

                    My Chihiros lights (from 2015 I think) had a recent crap out of one of the power packs. Fortunately I was able to figure it out and replace just the power pack.
                    Ahh, don't jinx them now... They had one necessary repair (one of the LED channel control transistors died, got a replacement part from Ledzeal and fixed it myself) and one precautionary repair: splashed water into the old fan-assisted power supply and some magic smoke got out. It still worked but I didn't trust it. I got a newer Meanwell 24v LED driver locally that is fan-free and IP67 rated for splashes.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I'm still running Fred's makemyled XB tubes but man oh man have I replaced a lot of white LEDs lately (I do have a lot of them however). I've also given up on the plastic power bricks after burning out a few. I bolted these commercial waterproof, fanless LED power supplies to the wall and run 3-4 lights from each. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/254582746025

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Grubs View Post
                        I bolted these commercial waterproof, fanless LED power supplies to the wall and run 3-4 lights from each. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/254582746025
                        I have used one of these drivers inside a waterproof box for my outdoor 12V DC lights. Has given me 4 years of service so far. I agree about the plastic bricks. I wish I could just figure out what's wrong and fix them but don't have the know how. I bet it's a simple component that can be soldered.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          [QUOTE=dcm;n959513]
                          Originally posted by Rebel View Post

                          They had one necessary repair (one of the LED channel control transistors died, got a replacement part from Ledzeal and fixed it myself) and one precautionary repair: splashed water into the old fan-assisted power supply and some magic smoke got out. It still worked but I didn't trust it. I got a newer Meanwell 24v LED driver locally that is fan-free and IP67 rated for splashes.
                          Haha didn't mean to jinx! Touch wood.

                          How did you figure out a transistor malfunction!!!???? Do you mean one of the chips died? I didn't know they used single transistors anymore.

                          Magic smoke = Get new one. I agree with this. I don't want my house going up in flames and killing all my fish and plants.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            [QUOTE=Rebel;n959525]
                            Originally posted by dcm View Post

                            Haha didn't mean to jinx! Touch wood.

                            How did you figure out a transistor malfunction!!!???? Do you mean one of the chips died? I didn't know they used single transistors anymore.

                            Magic smoke = Get new one. I agree with this. I don't want my house going up in flames and killing all my fish and plants.
                            There were four LED channels that could be varied in intensity which was done by pulse width modulation. Each LED channel had a single, heat-sinked switching transistor to handle the current - it's probably more than 20 watts so you're not going to switch that kind of current in an IC package. One of the channels got "stuck" on 100% whilst the other three channels was fine.

                            LedZeal sold me a new PCB (I pulled apart the light and replaced the offending board) but I kept the old PCB. If it happens again, I can de-solder a "good" tranny from the old board and do a component level repair.

                            I'm not an electronics tech but I have some basic knowledge and I can solder.

                            As for the power supply, having a non-moisture resistant power supply with an upward-facing fan vent that's going to be located beneath a fish tank was always asking for trouble. I pulled it apart at removal time and sure enough, there was some carbonisation on the PCB near mains voltage but not enough to cause leakage and thermal runaway fortunately. The power supply had been traumatised but not killed.

                            I saw that Ledzeal themselves subsequently ditched that type of supply in favour of a sealed unit and I was able to source a near-identical sealed unit from a local supplier that even has the correct Australian electrical certification. Swapping the power supply over was nothing more than migrating a DC output cable.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks dcm .

                              Great explanation and I think I have seen such switching transistors in some of the DIY builds on the net.

                              What I have been doing to my lights is to take them apart and spraying water proofing on the diadoes and all the pcbs. I find that my Chihiros occasionally take a swim in the tank when do maintenance and this has kept them safe. I reckon the same waterproofing could be applied to the inside of any plastic power supplies if you are worried about moisture.

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