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On going cyno alge

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  • myfishytank
    replied
    Hi Bart59
    i had, and having, the cyno algae in my tank a few months back. I read somewhere on the net that low nitrates and poor flow may be the contributing factors.
    back then I added a bucket from another tank of high nitrates into the cyno effected tank, and also added a hang on back filter in addition to canister filter. The cyno disappeared in few days I think.
    Recently I have added some more fast growing plants and the flow of HOB is also reduced, and the cyno has come back, this time starting between the front glass and Monte Carlo.
    (should note that I also have some BB which is under control, and some fuzzy filament algae which I am pulling out manually, but getting sick of it)

    What are your nitrates after a water change? And do you think that the location of cyno is where the flow may be low?

    may be you should go with the advice of rebel and use chemi clean to eliminate it.

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  • scilover
    replied
    One way to dispose of it is by taking steps to decrease the supplements within the water and mechanically evacuating the cyanobacteria itself. Begin by scratching the glass, cleaning the rocks and plants, and vacuuming the substrate. Perform a halfway water alter of 20 percent and turn the lights within the tank off for three days.

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  • BigDaddyAdo
    replied
    I was having cyno issues for the past few months. I would remove it all and it would be back within days. I got the shits and did nothing for a couple of weeks. No water changes, no maintenance at all, and it went away almost overnight. I did notice a lot of other types of algae on the glass so am thinking that maybe the other algae out competed the cyno.

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  • Rebel
    replied
    Dude for cyano, I suggest Chemiclean. I know many reasons for the cyano can be discussed but it's best to treat it and get on with more enjoyable tank keeping.

    Grubs ferts are tried and tested. Maybe increase the N by x2 for a coupla weeks though.

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  • Bart59
    replied
    Co2 ran out last week and I just got a new bottle so I’ve got this started today and will try the lights at sun b and up grubs ferts back to 3 mil per day which is his dose for a 400 liter tank and see how it goes see photo https://www.flickr.com/gp/[email protected]/PjQ0q1
    Last edited by Bart59; 01-06-20, 06:13 PM.

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  • Bart59
    started a topic On going cyno alge

    On going cyno alge

    Started a new tank 9 months ago Cade 5 ft 2 Eheim classic and a fx4 for filtration,Fredís Mmled 5 ft panel with controller,2 toned sub ,and grubs ferts and kh booster as I live in Melbourne and Iím on tank water the source water is super soft.ive had ongoing issues with alge from the start ,if I run Fredís panel at sun a I get green alge if I run it on sun b below 50% I get bba,Iím running co2 1 hour before lights and off before lights off through a large diy 90mm dia canister reactor,I have a air stone that runs during the night to give my discus som o2 at night .i have currently dialed the lights down to sun b 25% and grubs ferts to 25% recommended dose 2mil a day but now I have cyno ? Where to go from here I was going to add a sump and maybe get rid off to of my canister filters ,also considered to slowly siphon out the sub with each water change to get to bare bottom tank but I love planted tanks.freds auto controller has locked me out so I canít adjust the lights manually,I use sun b at 25% or 50% and use a timer before Fredís controler to switch it on later than the program if I want to reduce the duration
    tank is on .5 phoís ,0 am,0 nitrite,and 20 nitrate ,Gh sits at 2 ,ph around 6.5 before weekly water changes of 30%
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