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Thread: Luked's 4x2x2 project

  1. #1
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    Apr 2016
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    Default Luked's 4x2x2 project

    Hi All

    Finally got the tank I've always wanted, a 4x2x2!

    Goal is to close down my current 4ft tank and start again with this new tank. (i NEED to find the driftwood I have in mind!) http://www.aquariumlife.com.au/showt...ique-driftwood

    At the moment, its going to be on hold from being filled while I work to get it up to display standard.
    I was giving it a good clean when I realised that its rather scratched up to my disappointment.

    Things to do are:

    - Polish out scratches
    - decide on whether to run a sump
    - and if yes, pull overflow out and redo it, adding a proper bulkhead instead of just silicon and pvc pipe
    - if no, pull out overflow and seal up the hole
    - sort through ALL of the stuff I got given with the tank and sell of/giveaway whatever I dont need or want.
    - leak test the tank
    - frost the back panel
    - decide on using the hood or not
    - if yes, work out how to mount MML Floodlights in the hood while providing a source of exhaust to remove the heat.
    - if no, build a light hanging kit for the MML floodlights with the ability to expand number of lights if required.
    - ++++ whatever else comes to mind while doing this all!

    And now, enjoy a spam of pictures of the tank and gear I got for a grand total of $200















    Last edited by luked; 04-06-18 at 08:59 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    ACT
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    Nice haul! I dont see the chillin....

    Is it an acrylic tank? If so you can polish out scratches for sure.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebel View Post
    Nice haul! I dont see the chillin....

    Is it an acrylic tank? If so you can polish out scratches for sure.
    Nah its glass, but im going to get some cerium oxide and try and polish out as much as I can on the front and sides.
    DIY king has a video on it which makes me want to give it a crack.

    Worst case, I can get a 4x2x2 Euro Braces and Drilled for a sump for $570 which is the investment I wanted to avoid, but may be necessary.

    First picture, the chiller is very front.
    Last edited by luked; 04-06-18 at 09:00 PM.

  4. #4
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    its an old Aqua One chiller arctic, not sure of the size of it but yet. Ill test it on the weekend man. need to find hoses.

  5. #5
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    Do i use a sump or not!? help, I need your input/advice/recommendations

    if I do, should I use the existing holes? currently have an overflow on the right and a covered hole on the left.
    I've been tossing up the following ideas

    - Two overflows and then two return pipes in the middle of the tank
    - Having the overflow and a return line
    - Removing the overflow and just having the input/output pipes in the tank and paint them to match the driftwood or try camouflage them
    - Scrap the overflow entirely and just use the canister filters.

    Then theres the next part where I need to decide on a sump size/layout if I go that path.

  6. #6
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    Jun 2016
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    To sump or not to sump.
    That is a big question that in the end will come down to your personal preference.
    This is my personal opinion with the limited experience i have.
    The bigger the tank the more a sump becomes a better option. Reason: Big external filters cost a bomb. To properly filter a fully stocked tank you need a lot of filter material. Mechanical in sponges etc and biological in porous materials. Even a FX6, that is a pretty good filter, cannot hold a huge amount of both filter materials. That means the sponges will need to be cleaned more often and the tank cannot be over stocked. A sump can be as big as you need it to be and can be made from a cheap or free old fish tank. The filter material can be 3-4 times the volume in a sump and the pump to run it is serviceable or replaceable very easily.
    The downside to a sump is it cannot be removed, generally, from it's position so all the servicing and cleaning of materials has to be done where the tank sits. This might be a problem if it sits on carpet or in a living area that might make it unsavory to clean fish equipment. Some sump setups can also be a lot noisier than a canister filter.
    I think your 4x2x2 is sitting right on the edge of canister or sump. Not to big for a canister and not to small for a sump.
    I have a 6x2x2 that has a 3x1.5x1.2 sump that sits on the patio, so sump maintenance is easy. And a 5x1.5x1.5 that has a canister that is inside.
    Being a bit on the poorer side ATM i built both the sump, from a free fish tank, and the canister for both tanks so cost wise there is not much difference. The sump can hold 75L of material, with half of the sump going to a grow out area, while the canister only has 12L.

  7. #7
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    I had three canister filters on my 4x2x1.5 and got sick of cleaning them all the time, not to mention the three sets of inlet/outlet hoses to keep clean.
    So I made a sump filter.
    Had a 4ft tank cut down to fit inside the cabinet and made it with 5 compartments for the media etc.
    The sump adds about 120L plus holds all the bio media from three canisters and a lot more mechanical filtration(sponge and wool) than the canisters could ever hold.
    One compartment is a 40L refugeum (spelling?) with shrimp and a heap of Java Fern.
    Cleaning and water changes take less time than the canisters did with a whole lot less effort, works for me.
    Is a bit more messy as water splashes on the floor tiles, would not recommend this for a carpet floor !

    My tank is not drilled so I made two syphons using this design.... http://thereefuge.com/threads/consta...oy-method.249/
    I had to silicone a weir in the tank to make it all work.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by salt36 View Post
    I had three canister filters on my 4x2x1.5 and got sick of cleaning them all the time, not to mention the three sets of inlet/outlet hoses to keep clean.
    So I made a sump filter.
    Had a 4ft tank cut down to fit inside the cabinet and made it with 5 compartments for the media etc.
    The sump adds about 120L plus holds all the bio media from three canisters and a lot more mechanical filtration(sponge and wool) than the canisters could ever hold.
    One compartment is a 40L refugeum (spelling?) with shrimp and a heap of Java Fern.
    Cleaning and water changes take less time than the canisters did with a whole lot less effort, works for me.
    Is a bit more messy as water splashes on the floor tiles, would not recommend this for a carpet floor !

    My tank is not drilled so I made two syphons using this design.... http://thereefuge.com/threads/consta...oy-method.249/
    I had to silicone a weir in the tank to make it all work.
    Thanks for the input!! I have carpet, but im thinking if I went a sump, id run a second pump with a hose long enough to extend outside for water changes.
    It will be sophisticated lol and techy if I do it.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by luked View Post
    id run a second pump with a hose long enough to extend outside for water changes.
    It will be sophisticated lol and techy if I do it.
    Easy enough to Tee off the return line and have a valve/hose coupling there.
    My sump has 2 return pumps so there is redundancy and i can have 2 directions of flow. Along the tank and some front to back. Pretty important to keep the BB alive if there is a pump failure.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by salt36 View Post

    My tank is not drilled so I made two syphons using this design.... http://thereefuge.com/threads/consta...oy-method.249/
    I had to silicone a weir in the tank to make it all work.
    This is the design that i used to prevent my sump from overflowing. My WC system is direct rain water from the gutter above the tank so the sump fills up any time it rains heavy. Excellent if your tank is outside or in a fish room with an overflow line.
    Using this system, why did you have to install a weir?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Madmerv View Post
    This is the design that i used to prevent my sump from overflowing. My WC system is direct rain water from the gutter above the tank so the sump fills up any time it rains heavy. Excellent if your tank is outside or in a fish room with an overflow line.
    Using this system, why did you have to install a weir?
    The weir holds back a lot of water when the pump is turned off.
    Without the weir there could be 40+ litres draining into the sump which would overflow.

    And the weir acts as a skimmer and catches all the floating bits of plants etc

    A fish occasionally makes it's way into the sump, would be a fun ride!

  12. #12
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    So ive scored a 3ft tank as a swaps for one of the canisters I got with the 4x2x2 which I plan on using as the sump.
    I pick it up Thursday, so will see if it fits and then work on adding the inserts. Also going to look at adding some perspex lids that create a seal also and plumb the pipes through the lids.

    I also pulled the power-head pump out a the marisys 240 (series 1) that I got with the 4x2x2 and plan to use it as the return pump for the sump OR if its not powerful enough, the pump to use for water changes.

    its all slowly coming together.

    Next jobs to do, polish the glass to try remove as many scratches as possible (going to determine if I sell the tank and buy a brand new one), pull the overflow out, clean everything up and then reinstall the overflow (might make the overflow a triangle shape to have it blend better, then look at mounting the MML LED Floodlights to the hood if there is enough room and adding an exhaust fan (3 spare pc fans I have)

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Madmerv View Post
    Easy enough to Tee off the return line and have a valve/hose coupling there.
    My sump has 2 return pumps so there is redundancy and i can have 2 directions of flow. Along the tank and some front to back. Pretty important to keep the BB alive if there is a pump failure.
    Great point, could just do this instead!
    I was thinking of two return pumps and having two overflows, but not sure on the two overflows now.

  14. #14
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    Personally....I'd prefer canister....particularly if it's going to be a planted tank and not over stocked

    Canister will draw water from the bottom of the tank....not just what floats to the surface.
    Canisters require more cleaning.....but that means decaying rubbish is being removed from the system more often
    Canisters are quieter
    Smaller pump needed (no head)..... less energy used
    Last edited by Rod; 12-06-18 at 07:35 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by luked View Post
    I pick it up Thursday, so will see if it fits and then work on adding the inserts. Also going to look at adding some perspex lids that create a seal also and plumb the pipes through the lids.
    I used 4mm acrylic(perspex) for lids and they have all warped badly, probably from having the light above them or the water temperature or both.

    I siliconed acrylic dividers in the glass sump before I realised the silicone does not stick to acrylic!
    They may leak over time but the silicone on the glass will keep them in place.

    Mate you may want to plumb the pipes next to an edge or between two pieces of acrylic, it is awkward to remove when it comes time to clean the filter pads.

    One overflow should keep up with two pumps no problem.
    25mm PVC will handle around 5,000 litres per hour.
    The one pane of glass will work but maybe experiment first to see where the top needs to be to keep your desired water level.
    I am guessing my pump moves around 3,000 LPH and my weir is 600mm long. I have 5mm of water spilling over it.

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