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Thread: 5ft bookshelf aquarium - plan/build

  1. #91
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    Do you have access to a 3D printer? If so, you could try all sorts of shanighans...

  2. #92
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    I'm happy to help with 3d printing if it helps That offer goes for any of the regulars on AL by the way

    However if your thinking spray bar, I'm not 100% sure it would work. 3D Prints are not always water tight so there may be leaks between the spray holes. It is because of the layer by layer
    "The stuff I buy is a bit pricey however it is as dry as a nuns nasty" - BigDaddyAdo

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebel View Post
    Do you have access to a 3D printer? If so, you could try all sorts of shanighans...
    Could be an option, these are the pipes i brought below, I also have the 13mm set, yet to use them, they are tricky to fit onto such a shallow bookshelf tank as they are a bit long, with my 3ft bookshelf I am going to have to shorten the longest length that hangs outside the tank due to the style of stand, shouldn't have that problem on this tank. I like these pipes as they come apart... so in theory I can remove the outlet bend and connect a spray bar if I can make one or get one 3d printed, as you said its not easy to bend SS so that probably wont happen, will start with this outlet and see how i go, could maybe ad a jet nozzle or something.



    Quote Originally Posted by indir View Post
    I'm happy to help with 3d printing if it helps That offer goes for any of the regulars on AL by the way

    However if your thinking spray bar, I'm not 100% sure it would work. 3D Prints are not always water tight so there may be leaks between the spray holes. It is because of the layer by layer
    Cheers mate, will have to sus some stuff out, thanks heaps for the offer, maybe it could work? What do you thinking looking at the pipes above?

  4. #94
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    You could convert the inlet into an outlet by removing the inlet with multiple holes and reconnecting it with a 90 degree elbow from bunners or similar. The outlet will become the inlet or you can buy another inlet.

  5. #95
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    Modelling the fitting and spray bar shouldn't be a huge problem. If I can get my hands on one i can take measurements, model it up and print it for you and send once i know its a good fit. There might be some leaks but i guess not a big deal anyway since its going into the tank and would be fairly minor (you could also epoxy the outside or inside to make it "watertight".

    On a side note - i've seen DIY spray bars made from acrylic tubes etc. You could also use irrigation tube for the spray bar portion with holes drilled in/etc (its black and lightweight), and we could 3d print something to connect the irrigation tube to your SS pipes. Will have to be a tight fit to make sure it doesnt get blown off from the water pressure (hence the reason i'd like to print a few prototypes before the final product). This way you can easily replace hte spray bar into any size you need/want and gives you more flexibility.

    P.S - Good to see i've got more people thinking about 3d printing and our hobby Haha.
    "The stuff I buy is a bit pricey however it is as dry as a nuns nasty" - BigDaddyAdo

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebel View Post
    You could convert the inlet into an outlet by removing the inlet with multiple holes and reconnecting it with a 90 degree elbow from bunners or similar. The outlet will become the inlet or you can buy another inlet.
    could be an option but the flow from the inlet would be a bit all over the place with the slits all around the pipe.

    Quote Originally Posted by indir View Post
    Modelling the fitting and spray bar shouldn't be a huge problem. If I can get my hands on one i can take measurements, model it up and print it for you and send once i know its a good fit. There might be some leaks but i guess not a big deal anyway since its going into the tank and would be fairly minor (you could also epoxy the outside or inside to make it "watertight".

    On a side note - i've seen DIY spray bars made from acrylic tubes etc. You could also use irrigation tube for the spray bar portion with holes drilled in/etc (its black and lightweight), and we could 3d print something to connect the irrigation tube to your SS pipes. Will have to be a tight fit to make sure it doesnt get blown off from the water pressure (hence the reason i'd like to print a few prototypes before the final product). This way you can easily replace hte spray bar into any size you need/want and gives you more flexibility.

    P.S - Good to see i've got more people thinking about 3d printing and our hobby Haha.
    Cheers, maybe i can send you the pipes if I have no luck putting something together.
    Last edited by doylecolmdoyle; 08-02-18 at 05:15 PM.

  7. #97
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    Fred from MML said he would check out my build thread to chime in on what I should do in ways of lighting for the 1500mm x 210mm x 250mm (height) tank, below are my thoughts, any advice would be good.

    Have my own TC420 so would like to plug what ever i get into the tc420. Not sure on what spectrum I need, plan is for low light plants but with the option to go higher if I want.

    Option one was my original plan but someone has said one xb2 tube may cause spotting.

    Option one:

    XB2 TUBE - Model MML-XB2T
    Beam Angle: 45
    Length :150cm
    Spectrum: 6800K Full Spectrum A

    Tube Hang Kit - MML-TUBE-HANG
    Hang Kit : For 1

    100W Power Supply - MML-100W-POWER

    Plus cables to connect one tube to a TC420 (cant see these on the website)

    Option two (add RGBW tube):

    SUNRISE/SUNSET TUBE - Model MML-SST
    Length: 150cm

    XB2 TUBE - Model MML-XB2T
    Beam Angle: 45
    Length :150cm
    Spectrum: 6800K Full Spectrum A

    Tube Hang Kit - MML-TUBE-HANG
    Hang Kit : For 2

    100W Power Supply - MML-100W-POWER

    Plus cables to connect two tubes to a TC420 (cant see these on the website)
    Last edited by doylecolmdoyle; 08-02-18 at 05:29 PM.

  8. #98
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    Look at doing it out of acrylic tube. It is easy to bend and work with and can be got in short lengths from computer stores that do supplies for water cooling of PC's. I'm going to do a return pipe for my new cube out of 12mm OD. What size is the OD of the existing stainless pipe.

    Quote Originally Posted by doylecolmdoyle View Post
    Will have to look into a nice spray bar, its tricky because the tank is only 21cm wide (i guess 19cm internally) ive ordered a powerhead and SS inlet and outlets, maybe i could diy a SS spray bar.

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by mundi View Post
    Look at doing it out of acrylic tube. It is easy to bend and work with and can be got in short lengths from computer stores that do supplies for water cooling of PC's. I'm going to do a return pipe for my new cube out of 12mm OD. What size is the OD of the existing stainless pipe.
    Will have to measure when they arrive but I think its 18mm looking at the website, guessing it will be a squeeze to fit the 16/22 pipe onto them.

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by doylecolmdoyle View Post
    Fred from MML said he would check out my build thread to chime in on what I should do in ways of lighting for the 1500mm x 210mm x 250mm (height) tank, below are my thoughts, any advice would be good.

    Have my own TC420 so would like to plug what ever i get into the tc420. Not sure on what spectrum I need, plan is for low light plants but with the option to go higher if I want.

    Option one was my original plan but someone has said one xb2 tube may cause spotting.
    A single 6800K will spot a little because of the deep red leds, those tubes are designed to be used in pairs with the second tube having a reverse led pattern to eliminate spotting, spotting decreases when you mount higher and adding a sunrise/sunset tube will help a little too. Considering you have a shallow narrow tank though, I would personally go a single XB2 tube with a custom blend of 8000K+4000K whites or 6500K+4000K whites and with a lens to suit the height you want to hang it, how high was that?? btw we also now have 30 and 15 degree lenses although they are not yet on the website. Both mixes produce a decent overall spectrum for plants and produce no spotting. With a 2:1 ratio the 8000K+4000K will give a 6500K look and 6500K+4000K will give a warmer 5500K look, I prefer the 6500K look myself but it's a personal taste thing, both will do an equal job for plants. I think one of these would be suitable for high light plants on your tank too so no need to upgrade later

    To connect to your TC420 you'll need a single cable with a male 5.5/2.1 plug wired to one of the TC420 channels, order a 1M extension cable and add a note asking to cut one of the plugs off and add a spade connector to connect to the TC420.

  11. #101
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    Great advice Fred.

    I have a small DIY led that I did with 10k + 6500K alternating for my nano and I like the crisp look better than the warmer colours. It all depends on the personal preference. Red/orange plants may be nicer on the lower colour temperatures tho? Maybe nicer for the Dutch among us?

  12. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by makemyled View Post
    A single 6800K will spot a little because of the deep red leds, those tubes are designed to be used in pairs with the second tube having a reverse led pattern to eliminate spotting, spotting decreases when you mount higher and adding a sunrise/sunset tube will help a little too. Considering you have a shallow narrow tank though, I would personally go a single XB2 tube with a custom blend of 8000K+4000K whites or 6500K+4000K whites and with a lens to suit the height you want to hang it, how high was that?? btw we also now have 30 and 15 degree lenses although they are not yet on the website. Both mixes produce a decent overall spectrum for plants and produce no spotting. With a 2:1 ratio the 8000K+4000K will give a 6500K look and 6500K+4000K will give a warmer 5500K look, I prefer the 6500K look myself but it's a personal taste thing, both will do an equal job for plants. I think one of these would be suitable for high light plants on your tank too so no need to upgrade later

    To connect to your TC420 you'll need a single cable with a male 5.5/2.1 plug wired to one of the TC420 channels, order a 1M extension cable and add a note asking to cut one of the plugs off and add a spade connector to connect to the TC420.
    Good stuff, sounds like solid advice, I will go with the 8000K+4000K to give a 6500K look. I want to hang the light fairly high, say 1mtr or more above the tank, which lenses would you recommend, guessing i just pop lens info in the notes also.

    RE the TC420 can I just use the power out the back of the TC420 to the power supply or do I need to wire up the + - input channel on the front for power?

    EDIT - just put the order in, went with 2:1 ratio 8000K+4000K whites 30 degree beam angle, measured and i think the light will hang about 70cm above the tank.
    Last edited by doylecolmdoyle; 09-02-18 at 01:12 PM.

  13. #103
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    Updated mockup, question if I do run the inout and outlet at different ends of the tank, which should have the longer tube back to the filter, I can only sit the filter next to the stand at either end.

    Last edited by doylecolmdoyle; 09-02-18 at 01:42 PM.

  14. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by doylecolmdoyle View Post
    Good stuff, sounds like solid advice, I will go with the 8000K+4000K to give a 6500K look. I want to hang the light fairly high, say 1mtr or more above the tank, which lenses would you recommend, guessing i just pop lens info in the notes also.

    RE the TC420 can I just use the power out the back of the TC420 to the power supply or do I need to wire up the + - input channel on the front for power?

    EDIT - just put the order in, went with 2:1 ratio 8000K+4000K whites 30 degree beam angle, measured and i think the light will hang about 70cm above the tank.
    30 degrees should do the job but if you need to drop down to 15 you can grab a 15 degree lens kit from us later, pop off the end caps, slide the cover off, pop the lenses off and put some new ones one, very easy job. Although the TC420 can handle low lighting load through the power jack, the jack is really there just to power the unit for programming, we always recommend using the V+/V- on the other side to handle power load for lighting. The waterproof power supply you ordered has spade terminals to connect directly to the TC420 V+/V- so easy to hook up.

  15. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by makemyled View Post
    30 degrees should do the job but if you need to drop down to 15 you can grab a 15 degree lens kit from us later, pop off the end caps, slide the cover off, pop the lenses off and put some new ones one, very easy job. Although the TC420 can handle low lighting load through the power jack, the jack is really there just to power the unit for programming, we always recommend using the V+/V- on the other side to handle power load for lighting. The waterproof power supply you ordered has spade terminals to connect directly to the TC420 V+/V- so easy to hook up.
    Good stuff, so no need for any extra cables to connect the power supply to the TC420 V+/V-.

    Looking forward to getting all this running, Someone needs to make the PLED program for OSX, I dont have a PC at home, I have loaded PLED onto my parents PC and need to head there to make programs, I usually make a bunch and load them up to cover all bases.

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