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Thread: UV taken offline, followed by bloom

  1. #16
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    What size tank. I had a Sicce whale 500 on my 1200 and it wasn't enough. Needed two.

    How many plecos?? They are a notoriously messy fish and will be overloading the biological capacity of the filter.

    Tim

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mundi View Post
    What size tank. I had a Sicce whale 500 on my 1200 and it wasn't enough. Needed two.

    How many plecos?? They are a notoriously messy fish and will be overloading the biological capacity of the filter.

    Tim
    Its 1200 long (250l) & I have 2 of the 500's, but only one is running at the moment and flow is supplemented with 2 small power heads at either end.

    Agree with the Plecos, started with two, now have about 20+ of various size thanks to their poor family planning. They are going to be re-homed as soon as I find the time to capture/rescape.

    Edit: how do you have your two positioned (inlet/outlet)?

  3. #18
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    Sep 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by PiL View Post
    further to thread hijack:

    has your bacterial bloom turned green? quite often it does. a couple of big water changes and feed the fish sparingly should do the trick. if you can point your return nozzles to the surface to agitate, would recommend that too.
    It currently resembles pea and ham soup .

    Will take on board the advice that's been given and try to remedy my canister media and mx, reduce the bioload and see what happens over the next month of so.

  4. #19
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    Bit of an update, I still have green water although its less dense than previous. I have continued with weekly water changes (50%), and have reduced feeding + unintentional lighting. I fixed my other filter last week (Sicce 500) and now have both running, with increased bio media and reduced the sponges in the second (1x coarse). I will do the same with the other, but am waiting a couple of weeks for the new filter to catch up. I have also stopped dosing for now, but have added Dino dung in an attempt to keep the plants fed while I get this sorted... was this the right thing to do? CO2 continues the same.

    I am a little stuck on whether to reintroduce UV to my system.

    Once greenwater is established, will it be the primary consumer of all nutrients at the expense of the plants? Or if the nutrients are low enough, will the plants eventually outcompete the greenwater?

    I would rather get this sorted without the use of UV further masking any problems, but do I need to eradicate the GW first, and then take it (the UV) offline and see what's what?


    Also, as a side not, I am am not sure how to contact the Admins.. but I have been having an issue of late where all posts from late December show a total of 0 reads, but multiple responses, and when I try to open them, I get a message stating that the page cannot be decrypted. Earlier posts still work fine.
    This may have been discussed and resolved in other posts, but as said I have been unable to read anything new from late December?

  5. #20
    Join Date
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    I would reintroduce the UV. The best way to get rid of green water is UV or Total blackout. Did you check your to see if you were having an ammonia spike with the milky water. I don't think weekly water changes will get rid of green water on its own. it will lower your fert levels which will help weaken the algae but won't eradicate it. Put the UV back in the tank and when the green water is gone switch it off, continue with weekly water changes and see what happens, then maybe go back to your usual fert program, but start at lower amount and slowly build it back up.
    PS I'm getting 0 reads also, have no idea why, so maybe we all are.
    Not all mid-life crisis involve a sports car

  6. #21
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    Sep 2015
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    Thanks Bolsy, I am reluctatant to rush anything, but am getting a bit tired of the green look. I have to get a CO2 refill today, so will see what they have in the way of a replacement inline UV.
    The values during the initial white bloom were:

    NH4 - 0 Am I correct in thinking that any ammonia would have already been taken up by the bacteria bloom, giving a 0 reading in any case?
    NO2 - 0
    NO3 - 10



    Are you still able to open the threads with 0 reads? I found that I couldn't open your post today on the second page, without going to the first page initially? Weird. Any other new posts that start on page one I cant open at all.

    EDIT: Okay, so the forum may be out to get me, because I can open them now, have no idea why.
    Last edited by Jutscher; 05-01-17 at 07:49 AM.

  7. #22
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    Most of the gurus on any forum seem to say the same thing re green water. Most seem to say it's high no3 and P plus light.
    I tend to think that's as much a guess as anything.You would think that the bacteria would be using up the ammonia, but if it hung around for a while then their must have been an ammonia source to keep it going. What brand of test kits are you using. Most fish breeders I know of,won't go near API Ammonia kits because they say it's unreliable.
    I was using Elos kits for everything but am now changing over to Sera kits.
    In the past I got it in my 4ft tank, which is next to a window which get afternoon sun. I always used to get it in summer when the tank water was warmer and the tank got more light through the window.
    The last time I had it was last year when I changed over to EI. It was partly my fault I think as I just went bang in to it rather than ease my way into EI.
    Not all mid-life crisis involve a sports car

  8. #23
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    Jun 2013
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    ACT
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    Re-introduce the UV. Then remove it once the bloom is gone.

    Those se tests mean nothing in particular. Ammonia is thought to cause green water but not certain. No one knows what perpetuates it in our tanks. Natural waterway eutrophication is known to be proportional to the phosphate fertiliser run off. Our tanks are not like natural waterways and the research can't be generalized easily.

    Also try to vaccuum the substrate a little and get any organics out of your system.

  9. #24
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    Sep 2015
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    Perth
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    Thanks guys,
    I have a variety of test kits, but for NH4 I use an API kit as I haven't seen the need to get anything fancy when I use it very rarely. Maybe when I get the bigger reef system set up I will try the Sera kit, as I find their N03 and Mg kits pretty good.

    I picked up an inline UV today, will have it running this evening.

    I normally give the substrate a light vacuum with every water change, but I have not been vacuuming the substrate as much during the bloom due to the poor visibility - I syphon straight out into the garden, and the chain loaches have a bad habit of playing to close and getting sucked up if your not careful. Guess this weekend I will get my buckets out again and give it a clean, then pick out any fish that get too curious .

  10. #25
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    May 2013
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    I leave my UV filter (internal with 9W bulb) running all the time. Otherwise I get the oily film on the surface. There is plenty of surface agitation from the aqua one Nautilus 1400 plus a wave maker so I am gathering it is a bacterial bloom.

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