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Thread: Island Dreams; 60x45x45

  1. #16
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    May 2012
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    Albury/Wodonga
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    601

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    Hi Rebel, looking forward to seeing this creation unfold. I would personally choose MC over HC because its easier to maintain and roots itself in deeper but either would look great. I will agree with Dantrasy, that emergent portion is still Bolbitis heudelotii. The leaf form changes a bit once above the water line.
    It most likely is in a climate controlled room, but you could maybe try keeping the rhizomes submerged and regularly misting the leaves, hopefully they will adapt after a while to the less humid conditions.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    launceston
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    I tried pretty hard to get it to adjust, and it didn't at all.

    Heaps of Japanese tanks have it emersed tbo, so there must be a way

  3. #18

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    I thought it looked cool, now looks complicated
    60 X 40 X 40 fire (jungle 3 sided scape)
    http://www.aquariumlife.com.au/showt...-old-2ft-tank)

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Sydney - Normanhurst
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantrasy View Post
    Great stuff Rebel. Looking forward to pics.

    I think a single island would work well for this footprint.

    Great example of a low maintenance tank.
    [sigpic][/sigpic]
    We do not inherit the Earth from our Ancestors,
    We borrow it from our Children.

  5. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantrasy View Post
    Great stuff Rebel. Looking forward to pics.

    I think a single island would work well for this footprint.

    Sorry to hijack your thread Rebel, but that pic from Dantracy has me inspired to rescape (and easier using this thread than reposting the pic).
    So what plants can I use to create this 'in water/out of water' effect?
    60 X 40 X 40 fire (jungle 3 sided scape)
    http://www.aquariumlife.com.au/showt...-old-2ft-tank)

  6. #21
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    Sep 2013
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    launceston
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    Bella palm is the first one that comes to mind. or a absolutely bucket load of h.piniftida

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    ACT
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    13,860

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    I may have found a light.... I was thinking of hacking it using my TC420 to have sunset rise etc.

    light by Reb El, on Flickr

    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/8-row...0023.12.yirIKK

  8. #23
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    Jun 2012
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    Victoria, melbourne
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    I wonder how good the lights are??

  9. #24
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    Jun 2013
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    ACT
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    Quote Originally Posted by stanzzzz View Post
    I wonder how good the lights are??
    Not sure but the concept interests me. I think the CRI might be good. I wonder whether it's good enough to get to 45cm though. I'll have some kool plants in there that I can't lose.

    The slim profile and price is all good too.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Croydon, Adelaide.
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    1,171

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    Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
    Is the 2 tank rule a self imposed rule, or is the Finance Minister, although loved dearly being a pain in the bum as is the case here in Adelaide!!
    Not all mid-life crisis involve a sports car

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    824

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    +1 for Hygrophila Pinnatifida. I am constantly trimming mine when it goes emersed. The emersed leaf structure is more compact aswell which is a good thing I think.

    Tim

    Quote Originally Posted by frenchie View Post
    Bella palm is the first one that comes to mind. or a absolutely bucket load of h.piniftida

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
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    175

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebel View Post
    Not sure but the concept interests me. I think the CRI might be good. I wonder whether it's good enough to get to 45cm though. I'll have some kool plants in there that I can't lose.

    The slim profile and price is all good too.
    Sorry to rain on your parade Rebel but I feel obliged to warn because there are so many marketing tricks with lights like these. For a 120cm unit, the specs say 692 leds 124W which means each led is .18W and lower powered than normal 5050 strip leds so they have pumped a heap of leds in and dropped the wattage to keep the heat down. Normal 5050 leds @ .25W ea can at best deliver reasonable PAR to 30cm depth so .18W leds would be worse. You're gonna need some power leds to make it a decent light for 45cm deep.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Northern Rivers, NSW
    Posts
    793

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    I'd definitely avoid the LED strips. They are garbage - both in regards to lifespan and power usage. As long as you're up for a DIY job you should do it yourself with XM-L LEDs (or XM-L2s). Each of the XM-Ls (the XM-L2 is a newer version) is 3W (from memory) and is incredibly bright. They have no trouble getting through 2ft of water column (if you used some lenses on them they would be even better). 14 3W LEDs are more than enough for my 4ft by 2ft by 2ft tank. It cost for everything (LEDs, heat sinks, the aluminium frame that they are mounted to, drivers, etc.) about $200-$250.
    Last edited by Cryptocorynus; 17-07-16 at 09:10 AM.
    Rainbowfish, Cryptocoryne, Echinodorus

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Sydney
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    410

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    This will be a slick rig . This tank deserves proper lighting, go T5 mate.

  15. #30
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    Jun 2013
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    ACT
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    Quote Originally Posted by makemyled View Post
    Sorry to rain on your parade Rebel but I feel obliged to warn because there are so many marketing tricks with lights like these. For a 120cm unit, the specs say 692 leds 124W which means each led is .18W and lower powered than normal 5050 strip leds so they have pumped a heap of leds in and dropped the wattage to keep the heat down. Normal 5050 leds @ .25W ea can at best deliver reasonable PAR to 30cm depth so .18W leds would be worse. You're gonna need some power leds to make it a decent light for 45cm deep.
    I agree with you Fred. I was tantalised by the heatsink/mount which is very sleek. Not all strip lights are made equal though. The ADA version 601 packs a punch and measures PPFD 70 at the sub. I need to find out whether that's at 45 or 30 though....

    I will probably end up using your 60cm tubes as I am afraid to put them back in the hood in my display.


    Quote Originally Posted by Cryptocorynus View Post
    I'd definitely avoid the LED strips. They are garbage - both in regards to lifespan and power usage. As long as you're up for a DIY job you should do it yourself with XM-L LEDs (or XM-L2s). Each of the XM-Ls (the XM-L2 is a newer version) is 3W (from memory) and is incredibly bright. They have no trouble getting through 2ft of water column (if you used some lenses on them they would be even better). 14 3W LEDs are more than enough for my 4ft by 2ft by 2ft tank. It cost for everything (LEDs, heat sinks, the aluminium frame that they are mounted to, drivers, etc.) about $200-$250.
    Very tempting and I would definitely do this at some stage... Those XML2 are crazy bright at 3000ma I think. I might use a large heatsink for it.


    Quote Originally Posted by slin1977 View Post
    This will be a slick rig . This tank deserves proper lighting, go T5 mate.
    Haha I reckon this is still the best for colour. No doubt about it. I almost bought a unit from iQuatics in the UK but held off....

    Too many choices!

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