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Thread: My makemyled review

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Adelaide
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    174

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebel View Post
    Thats great Fred. I think its a good solution for the old tubes.


    The old ones didnt seem to have water proofing applied.

    Is there any waterproofing done with the new tube design with integrated driver?
    The XB2 tubes have a much smoother profile and the end cap fits on super tight, no evidence of moisture seepage on our under hood mounts on these but for those that want to mount them in humid conditions I would encourage them to add their own additional silicone waterproofing around the end caps and cable entry as a precaution, fyi hot objects will always draw air in from outside during cool down to balance air pressure (law of physics) and if that happens to be wet air then it will get in, opposite happens during warm up but some humid may remain. For under hood installations the best solution is the have vents on the top (not back as some do).

  2. #32
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    Feb 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
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    174

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckmeister View Post
    I'll shoot you an email for self repair. I'm pretty handy having built industrial boats for most of my life but I have to admit never having picked up a soldering iron...how hard can it be!! (or I'll find someone handy with one)
    anyway I just came here to post a vid on my lights and another section has blown out. I'd forgotten that I posted a few weeks back (JD issue :P) but I'm beginning to wonder if I'm going to have to continuously have to pull these apart for repair. It was a pretty decent investment at the time and in fact would still be today but it seems that each section is failing one after the other.
    Anyway its not life or death..just something that needs to be sorted at some stage...and in the meantime here is my Vid that I was going to post (with a date correction on the description seeing as it has indeed been 36 months instead of 18)
    If you've never soldered before I wouldn't learn on this type of repair, it does take some soldering finesse and a light weight fine tip soldering iron to replace a driver. A multimeter also comes in handy to diagnose further (e.g. dead led) if it's not a driver issue, or you could simply replace the driver and the 6 leds of a section if you can't be bothered or don't have or don't know how to use a multimeter.

    Just to put all of this in perspective, we have over 5000 mml tubes in use and less than 1% of them have have had issues which is up there with the rest of the led offerings and exceeds reliability of many of them, but for those that do have a problem we will help get it sorted.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    ACT
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    13,807

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    If anyone is local to me I am happy to solder these for you. I've got some practice due to other hobbies.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Victoria Park, Western Australia
    Posts
    29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grubs View Post
    I have about 30 feet of MML tubes and a single 1ft segment go dark with a driver fail that was shortly after I got it (faulty component). Fred sent me a driver in the mail. I popped the light apart and soldered it in. quicker and cheaper option if you have the tools/skills.
    Hi Grubs, do you still remember what was the driver specs were?

    Cheers,
    Khee

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    ACT
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    13,807

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    My guess is that it's this one.
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PCS...0ba7f04f48df82

    Best to ask Fred though.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    174

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebel View Post
    My guess is that it's this one.
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PCS...0ba7f04f48df82

    Best to ask Fred though.
    Ours is a similar design but not the same, if you run the aliexpress ones at 12V they should be ok but our lights are 24V and most of the components on the 12V aliexpress driver are not designed to run at 24V, particularly the big black capacitor will blow very quickly if the supply is a fraction over 24V which many of them are, our green capacitor is 35V so plenty of leeway. We have plenty in stock for $4 each but I see they are not listed on our website so we'll put them up there.

  7. #37

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    *thumbsup* definitely grab from Fred. I've found these lights to be super reliable. Can't say the same for the power supplies (no supplied by Fred) - have had a few ebay cheapies that that have developed dry solder joints on the boards - I cant possibly debug them but I crack them open and re-melt as many solder connections as I can and they spring back to life.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    ACT
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    13,807

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grubs View Post
    that that have developed dry solder joints on the boards - I cant possibly debug them but I crack them open and re-melt as many solder connections as I can and they spring back to life.
    Do you bake em in the oven or manually wet the joints?

  9. #39

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    I use a soldering iron and dab some fresh solder on each joint that I can see. I wouldn't want to bake the whole thing in case there are components that would be damaged by the heat. I only know enough electronics to be dangerous and some boards don't survive.. but a I've brought 3 power packs back from the dead this way.

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