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Thread: Dry Fertilisers - Source and Recipe

  1. #16
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    This is a great post Apalsson. Being a newbie to using real plants in a tank, I have already learned a lot from this forum about lighting, DIY CO2 and plant care but have been a bit daunted by DIY ferts. This information should be able to give me a good start to make sure that my plants get everything that they need.

  2. #17
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    This could be seen as the stupidest post ever, but has anyone just mixed up something like the Yates Aquasol as per the instructions and dosed that?(or a watered down version of it) Its got the lot, except nitrogen is mostly in the form of urea...which sounds a bit nasty....

  3. #18
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    Lovey,

    Stay clear of Urea unless you want pea soup

  4. #19
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    Thanks for the informative post, Apalsson.

    May I ask some idiots' questions (because I'm still a noob for planted tank here)?

    If I'm going with eco-complete which I think should have already contained all the fertilisers and nutrients, will I still need your recipe? Or will your recipe help further with my plants?

    May I know roughly how much I should be expecting to spend to make up this fert regime (because I haven't bought any of these before)?

    Thanks,
    Theo
    _____________________________________________
    Re-exploring my long missed time with the lively tanks....

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by dorateo View Post
    Thanks for the informative post, Apalsson.

    May I ask some idiots' questions (because I'm still a noob for planted tank here)?

    If I'm going with eco-complete which I think should have already contained all the fertilisers and nutrients, will I still need your recipe? Or will your recipe help further with my plants?

    May I know roughly how much I should be expecting to spend to make up this fert regime (because I haven't bought any of these before)?

    Thanks,
    yes you will need to suppletment the eco complete.

    eco complete is a complete 'substrate' fertiliser meaning your plants will get all the neccesary nutrients they need from the soil. BUT they will not get any nutrients throught the water coloumn, meaning you need to add extra ferts into the water...This PMDD method on this thread would be perfect i wopuld think. depending on size of your tank, of course..
    ... Cheers,
    Dylan.

    [sigpic][/sigpic]

  6. #21
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    Thanks for your advice, Dylan!
    Theo
    _____________________________________________
    Re-exploring my long missed time with the lively tanks....

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by apalsson View Post
    If you are interested in knowing about symptoms of the various nutricient deficiencies , check out this link:
    http://www.finostrom.com.gr/images/a...lizers/map.htm
    That link is solid gold! Thanks Ari. That one is going straight to the bookmark list!
    Cheers,
    Scott

  8. #23
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    I was reading a summary of the EI schedule on one of the american forums, and it advised leaving out K2SO4, saying that there is sufficient K supplied from the KNO3 and K2HPO4. Ok, fair enough maybe, but what about sulphur? Sulphur is an essential macronutrient too, and if you're not adding sulphate, where are the plants supposed to get it from? High protein fish food would supply some, but not much.

    Any thoughts?
    Cheers,
    Scott

  9. #24
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    Default MgSO4

    I use MgSo4 instead of K2SO4
    There is some sulphur

    Graeme
    Read this very helpful thread on BSS .
    No pictures on your BSS advert? Then be prepared for it to be deleted ( read the rules )

  10. #25
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    Thanks very much for making this thread a sticky

    Beats trawling through all of the others
    Regards

    Matt

  11. #26
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    Can I ask some newbie questions too?

    Anyone one got any ideas on mixing up a solution of K2SO4 only for an aquarium and a dose amount. It says (for the garden) go 20g per 8L of water. I don't want to make up 8L, but assume 1.25g per 500mL would be the same, and then I'll just start with say a mill or two and monitor closely and go from there. A fair idea?

    I don't want to do the whole mix. My nitrates are always high, which makes me not want to add any Potassium Nitrate. And also makes me think nitrogen in plentiful. I don't want to add phosphates for the algal reasons. Is that good thinking? And I think the commercial traces I use are quite good. I just want some more Potassium, which is 'K' right?

    What about Iron? Anyone use any of the Iron (Fe) ferts that are available down the same isle as the Potassium Sulphate in Bunnings? Sure is cheaper than Seachem's Iron stuff.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by coralnerd View Post
    I was reading a summary of the EI schedule on one of the american forums, and it advised leaving out K2SO4, saying that there is sufficient K supplied from the KNO3 and K2HPO4. Ok, fair enough maybe, but what about sulphur? Sulphur is an essential macronutrient too, and if you're not adding sulphate, where are the plants supposed to get it from? High protein fish food would supply some, but not much.

    Any thoughts?
    Hi Scott,

    I mentioned earlier in the thread that the Conlin Sears method was only one of many methods that had been devised over the years. It has since been challenged and modified in several ways. There is a lot of good articles accordingly posted on The Krib website. Interestingly, the newer methods base a lot on the original theories from Conlin and Sears.

    Tom Barr and his Estimative Index method is one of the newer methods and according to his theories, enough Potassium (K) is added when dosing relatively high levels of Potassium Nitrate (KNO3).
    Tom's method bases on maintaining high levels of nutricients across the board though. Tom also assumes high levels of lighting and high and steady levels of CO2.

    Like I stated before, the Conlin Sears method is not a rule but a good method for the "average planted", medium-light tank and can be seen as a starting point rather than an ultimate goal.

    Fish waste in tanks with high bioload creates enough Nitrate to statisfy the need for Nitrate but that leaves you to dose Potassium separately in the form of Potassium Sulphate (K2SO4). Under those circumstances, I would simply leave out the KN03 from the recipe.
    Additionally, the recipe also includes a fairly significant amount of Magnesium Sulphate (MgSO4) which adds the remaining sulphate.

    As a conclusion, if you use the Conlin Sears method and are concerned about adding Nitrates to your tank, simply leave out the KNO3

    Apologies for the long-winded vague reply.

  13. #28
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    Scott, specifically relating to Tom barr's method - as has been stated prior, there is either the use of MgSO4, or Seachem Equilibrium (which contains MgSO4 plus other bits and pieces, including K and Ca) or "Barr's GH Booster" which is a dry mix basically the same as Equilibrium with extra MgSO4 and is sold by Greg Watson, or you can find the recipe for free (somewhere?!) on the site. Any decent trace mix should also contain a reasonable level of Sulphur.
    HTH.
    Cheers,

    Rufus


    "I completely lost it. Well, okay, that sounded more awesome than what I really did, which was yell. And by yelling I mean sending a bunch of TEXT MESSAGES ALL IN CAPS!"

  14. #29
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    Hmm. I have been using Dave's PMDD recipe, with good results. But cause I'm a biologist and a tinkerer and I like learning , I've just started an EI schedule. Only a few days in so far, so too early to say if anything is changing. I'm using a bit of leftover seachem flourish for traces while I wait on the simplegrow stuff. I haven't included any K2SO4 in my NPK mix, so it will be interesting to see how things go without it.
    Cheers,
    Scott

  15. #30
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    A week in on the EI schedule and the four foot tank is developing a bit of BGA on the leaves at the surface, directly under the lights. I suspect that nitrates are bottoming out between doses of NPK solution. After this weekend I'll try doubling the dose, so I'll be shooting for 20 ppm nitrate (and approx 2ppm phosphate) rather than 10, which is what I'm currently aiming for. If that doesn't work I might have to change the N:P ratio.
    Cheers,
    Scott

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