• Anubias barteri v. "Lorraine" - Anubias Lorraine

    Anubias barteri v. "lorraine"

    Photo thanks to slin1977

    Common: Anubias Lorraine
    Scientific: Anubias barteri v. "Lorraine"
    AKA: Lorraine, A. Lorraine

    Difficulty: Very easy
    Light requirements: Low. Does better in shade in high light tanks - has been known to develop algae in high light without other appropriate tankmates. One of the few plants that can cope with natural light only.
    Type: Rhizome
    Temperature: -21-30c+
    pH: 5.0-8.6
    Counrty of Origin: Africa - but variety developed in Australia
    CO2: Not required
    Substrate: As it is a water column feeder, this is not really relevant, in fact if the rhizome is buried in the substrate it will rot.
    Filtration/Circulation: Will tolerate circulation, does not require any
    Position in tank: Most commonly sold as shown attached to pots, logs/ driftwood. It can be buried in the substrate, as long as the rhizome is not submerged, and thus used as a foreground plant, eg:

    Photo thanks to Rufus

    Photo thanks to slin1977. A. Lorraine is on the left, in front of the driftwood, with a white flower.

    Propagation: By splitting the rhizomes, with at least 4 leaves on each segment and roots on each. Cutting part way through the rhizome with a sharp, clean razor can reportedly get more growth.
    Ferts: Feeds through the water column, so will require macro ferts, but is a slow grower, so over-feeding will result in algal blooms.

    Leaf size:

    What makes this variety unusual is the variegated leaves - striped with a cream/white in an uneven pattern. This plant was developed in Australia.

    To attach the plant to a rock, piece of driftwood, or pot yourself, you can use a rubber band, fishing line or cotton thread to tie the rhizome to the chosen object. Be careful not to cut through the rhizome (the chunky bit) & tie the roots around as well as you can, but it doesn't have to be perfect.

    NB. If using fishing line or particularly cotton thread, be careful not to have loose thread in the tank, or loose loops as fish, especially bristlenose catfish, have been known to be caught in the threads or damaged by them, sometimes resulting in death, either immediately or hours or days later.

    The roots of the anubias will, over a matter of weeks or months, attach themselves to the object it has been tied to, and the ties can be removed.

    I have grown Anubias varieties in many tanks over many years, in everything from t5's, t8's to natural light and almost no light (after moving house, inside, in a neglected 3ft tank that I forgot about for nearly 2 years, away from the window, no light or heater that I remember, with algae all over the walls of the tank). After nearly 2 years in those conditions the 12 plants I had left in the substrate had nearly covered the bottom of the tank. I'm not advocating that anyone give this poor plant that hard a time, and it's certianly not it's ideal growing condition, or going to show it to its best advantage, but it does show that it will tolerate an awful lot, which makes it an ideal beginners' plant.

    Suitable for: beginners through to advanced aquarists.
    Can be grown submersed, emersed - great for tanks, paludariums, tropical ponds (NSW & above).
    Grows too slowly to be ideal for aquaponic systems, or around the edges of ponds.


    From Bristlenose 2008:

    Substrate: It can feed from the water column, and if the rhizome is buried in the substrate it will rot. However more growth can be noticed if the root is allowed to penetrate the substrate and able to grow roots right into the lower layers of substrate which for most people is the most nutritious layer.

    Propagation: By splitting the rhizomes, some would say 1 leaves on each segment , but anubias species will do just fine with no leaves at all. Lefes will regenerate at a general rate of 1 per week, but above the water in a palandrium style setup (where it is popularly used) 5 leaves over 3 weeks can be observed. Partially cutting part way through the rhizome with a sharp or inflicting a scratch in the rhizome can trigger additional growth shoots/rhizome development. This is a hit and miss for most, but aim't a fairy tale.

    Regularly confused with: Other Anubias varieties.

    Comments 3 Comments
    1. DiscusEden's Avatar
      DiscusEden -
      Quote Originally Posted by Plantnut View Post
      Yeah, it's a very pretty and unique little plant. Pisces have started selling those not too long ago..
      Quote Originally Posted by Plantnut View Post
      Anubias barteri var nana "Gold" is another new hybrid that I find rather exciting. It's around but not yet commercially available AFAIK.

      I think I've already mentioned it in anotehr thread somewhere.. Australia seems to have the most Anubias hybrids worldwide, thanks to Mr. Frazer of Pisces enterprises.
      He used to specialise in creating new hybrids for a long time, which is where all the unusal var. come from... ie.: "Frazeri", "Isabelle", "Lorraine", "Emerald Heart", "Jenny", "Lisa".

      Most of them were named after his daughters or women in his life.

      IMO, Anubias are highly underrated..
      The thread continues here:
    1. DiscusEden's Avatar
      DiscusEden -
      Quote Originally Posted by rufus View Post
      That's a great plant list you've got there, actually.

      A. 'lorraine' is a really nice plant. I think it's quite under-appreciated because it's a Pisces (Australian) cultivar, but, IMO, with its variegation and wavy leaf, it's really quite a beauty.
      The thread continues here:
    1. DiscusEden's Avatar
      DiscusEden -
      The varigation of this plant may be caused by a virus which could spread to your other anubias species, making them unsafe for transfer to other tanks:

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